The back story
-
The back story
Old Tirana: the square, the castle and the bazaar, the back story
From an Ottoman market town to a planned capital: the story of the streets around Skanderbeg Square, the castle and the New Bazaar.

Neighbourhood guide · the historic centre
Skanderbeg Square, the Et’hem Bey Mosque, the castle walls, Bunk’Art 2 and the New Bazaar, with where to eat, drink, shop and stay in the historic centre.
The back story
From an Ottoman market town to a planned capital: the story of the streets around Skanderbeg Square, the castle and the New Bazaar.
The heart of Tirana
Tirana’s vast pedestrian main square, paved with stone from across Albania, ringed by the mosque, the museum, the opera and the ministries.
Sheshi SkënderbejExplore View on map
Frescoes of trees and waterfalls
A small, exquisite mosque from the late 18th and early 19th centuries, painted with frescoes of trees, waterfalls and bridges.
Sheshi SkënderbejExplore View on map
Climb for the view
The 19th-century clock tower beside the Et’hem Bey Mosque, which you can climb.
Sheshi SkënderbejExplore View on map
Khrushchev laid the first stone
The long colonnaded building on the east side of Skanderbeg Square, home to the Opera and the National Library.
Sheshi SkënderbejExplore View on map
Under the city centre
A bunker near Skanderbeg Square, built for the Ministry of Internal Affairs, now a museum of the police and the secret police.
Rruga Abdi ToptaniExplore View on map
Old walls, new cafés
Fragments of the old castle walls along a pedestrian street of restaurants and shops.
Shëtitorja Murat ToptaniExplore View on map
Eight columns from 1817
An eight-columned Ottoman tomb of 1817, the last survivor of the cemetery of a mosque destroyed in the Second World War.
Rruga 28 NëntoriExplore View on map
An 18th-century footbridge
A small Ottoman stone bridge, once on the road to the leather-workers’ quarter.
Rruga ElbasanitExplore View on map
Fruit, cheese, raki and terraces
Tirana’s renovated central market: fruit and vegetable stalls, cheese, honey and raki, surrounded by restaurants and cafés.
Sheshi Avni RustemiExplore View on map
The new great mosque
The large new mosque near the Parliament, one of the biggest in the Balkans.
Rruga KavajësExplore View on map
Old-house Albanian cooking
A traditional Albanian restaurant in an old house near the New Bazaar, with rugs, wooden ceilings and dishes from across the country.
Rruga Riza JasaExplore View on map
Katunar and proud
A long-standing Tirana grill near the castle known for farm-raised meat and plates of local appetisers.
Rruga Ismail Qemali, near Tirana CastleExplore View on map
Burgers by the bazaar
A café-restaurant and guesthouse by the New Bazaar, known for American-style burgers and breakfasts.
A café full of memories
A café-bar filled with furniture and everyday objects from 20th-century Albanian homes, with a long list of raki.
Rruga Fatmir Haxhiu 2Explore View on map
Under the Palace arches
A green bistro café under the arches of the Palace of Culture, looking onto Skanderbeg Square.
Palace of Culture, Sheshi SkënderbejExplore View on map
A family name from 1924
A family pastry shop whose story goes back to 1924, with shops at the New Bazaar and in Komuna e Parisit.
Pazari i RiExplore View on map
Beside the Toptani Seraj
A cosy bar with a small terrace next to the historic Toptani Seraj, serving Spritz cocktails and Italian food.
Rruga Abdi ToptaniExplore View on map
A sommelier on hand
A wine bar inside the Tirana Castle complex pairing Albanian and Italian wines with Italian and Mediterranean dishes.
Tirana Castle, Shëtitorja Murat ToptaniExplore View on map
Raki, honey and mountain tea
The covered halls of the New Bazaar, for local produce, raki, honey, cheese and mountain tea.
Sheshi Avni RustemiExplore View on map
By the castle walls
Small shops and stalls by the old castle walls, with crafts and souvenirs.
Shëtitorja Murat ToptaniExplore View on map
Central mall
A central shopping centre on the pedestrian Murat Toptani street, near Skanderbeg Square.
Rruga Abdi ToptaniExplore View on map
350 m from the square
A recently renovated design hotel in one of Tirana’s oldest neighbourhoods, 350 m from Skanderbeg Square.
Rruga Mahmut Fortuzi 5Explore View on map
Old Town location
A central hotel on Rruga Qemal Stafa in the Old Town, very close to Skanderbeg Square.
Rruga Qemal StafaExplore View on map
Behind the Opera
A central hotel just behind the Palace of Culture and Skanderbeg Square.
Rruga Urani PanoExplore View on map
On Skanderbeg Square
The hotel on Skanderbeg Square itself, with rooms looking over the city’s heart.
Sheshi Skënderbej 8Explore View on map
A tower by the square
A five-star tower hotel a short walk from Skanderbeg Square, with rooftop views.
Rruga Abdi Toptani 18Explore View on map
Been there? Share your experience and tips with other visitors.